Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 Engine: Specs & Used Replacement Tips

The Mitsubishi Raider is one of those trucks that confuses people the moment they pop the hood, because almost nothing under there says "Mitsubishi." The Raider was built on the Dodge Dakota platform at Chrysler's Warren Truck Assembly plant, and the base V6 it carried is pure Chrysler: the 3.7-liter PowerTech V6, internally coded EKG. So when you go looking for a used Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L engine, what you are really shopping for is the same single-overhead-cam 3.7 PowerTech that powered hundreds of thousands of Dakotas, Jeep Libertys, Grand Cherokees, and Rams in the same era. I have pulled these engines from donor trucks, run them on the stand, dropped them into customers' Dakotas and Raiders, and torn down a couple of failures to see exactly what gave up. This guide is the honest, hands-on version: real specifications, the failure points that genuinely show up, how long the engine lasts, and what to check before you hand over money for a used unit.

If you are a DIY owner staring at a four-figure shop quote for a replacement long block, or a professional installer trying to source a clean, tested engine on a tight deadline, the short version is that a quality used 3.7 PowerTech is usually a smart, affordable buy. The longer version, the part that keeps you from buying somebody else's headache, is the rest of this page. We ship tested OEM used and remanufactured engines nationwide across the United States from our facility in Sheridan, Wyoming, so along the way I will flag the buying and installation details that actually matter once you have decided to go the used route.

Quick Specifications

Before we get into what breaks, here is the hard data on the Raider-spec 3.7. The Raider was sold for model years 2006 through 2009, and across that run the base engine was the 3.7L PowerTech EKG V6. The numbers below describe the engine as installed in the Raider and its Dakota twin, which share the same casting, calibration family, and accessory layout.

Specification	Detail
Engine family / code	Chrysler PowerTech 3.7L V6 (EKG)
Displacement	3.7 L (3,701 cc / 226 cu in)
Configuration	90-degree V6, SOHC 12-valve (2 valves per cylinder)
Aspiration	Naturally aspirated
Fuel system	Sequential multi-port fuel injection (SMPI)
Valvetrain	SOHC, chain-driven cams with roller rocker arms
Bore x stroke	93.0 mm x 90.8 mm (3.66 in x 3.57 in)
Compression ratio	9.6:1
Horsepower	210 hp @ 5,200 rpm
Torque	235 lb-ft @ 4,000 rpm
Block / head material	Cast-iron block, aluminum cylinder heads
Timing	Timing chain (not a belt), single chain per bank
Firing order	1-6-5-4-3-2
Oil capacity	Approx. 5.0 US quarts with filter (5W-30)
Recommended fuel	Regular 87 octane
Years used (Raider)	2006 to 2009
Drivetrain pairing	6-speed manual or 4-speed (42RLE) automatic; RWD or 4WD

Two details in that table matter more than the rest to anyone who works on these for a living. First, it is a timing chain, not a belt, so there is no fixed mileage interval hanging over you the way there is on a belt-driven engine. Second, it is a derivative of the 4.7L PowerTech V8 with two cylinders lopped off, sharing that engine's 90-degree bank angle, SOHC architecture, and a lot of its hardware philosophy. That heritage is the key to both its durability and its quirks, so keep it in mind as we go.

Reliability: How Long Does the Mitsubishi Raider 3.7 Last?

Let me be straight, because the 3.7 PowerTech has a mixed reputation that is partly earned and partly unfair. Fundamentally this is a simple, tough, old-school truck engine. Cast-iron block, two valves per cylinder, port injection, regular fuel, no turbo, no direct injection, no cylinder deactivation. There is very little exotic technology to fail. A well-maintained 3.7 in a Raider or Dakota routinely reaches 180,000 to 220,000 miles, and I have personally seen examples cross 250,000 doing nothing more dramatic than plugs, fluids, a water pump, and a set of motor mounts along the way.

The honest catch is that this engine is more sensitive to oil neglect than its rugged design suggests, and that sensitivity centers on one part: the timing chain tensioner and guides. The 3.7 uses plastic-faced chain guides and an oil-pressure-fed tensioner, and dirty or low oil is exactly what wears them out early. The high-mileage survivors I tear into almost always share one trait: clean oil, changed on time, for the engine's whole life. The early failures usually skipped oil changes, ran the truck low on oil, or both. So the truthful reliability picture is this: the bottom end is genuinely stout and will go the distance, but the valvetrain and timing components punish neglect more than the engine's simple reputation might lead you to expect.

What separates the 220k-mile engines from the 120k-mile failures

In my experience the dividing line is oil discipline and cooling-system health. The 3.7 PowerTech is technically a non-interference engine in most references, which is good news, but a worn chain that jumps timing will still strand you and can still damage valvetrain components even if it rarely smashes pistons. Engines that got clean 5W-30 on a real interval kept their chain guides, tensioner, and rocker arms healthy and quiet. On the cooling side, this engine has aluminum heads on an iron block, and chronic overheating warps heads and cooks head gaskets. The 220k-mile units ran cool and clean. The early failures overheated at some point or ran sludgy oil. History matters here as much as on any engine I inspect, which is exactly why donor history is the first thing I ask about.

Common Problems With the Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 Engine

Here are the failure modes I actually see on the 3.7 PowerTech, ranked roughly by how often they turn up. None of these should scare you off a clean, tested unit, but you need to know them to inspect intelligently and to budget honestly.

1. Timing chain tensioner and guide wear

This is the headline issue on the 3.7. The engine uses a hydraulic, oil-fed chain tensioner and plastic-faced guides, and over time, especially on engines run on old or low oil, the guides wear and the tensioner loses its ability to keep the chain tight. The classic symptom is a rattle or whine on cold start that lasts a few seconds until oil pressure builds, sometimes followed by a persistent ticking. Ignored long enough, a stretched chain can throw a P0344 or cam/crank correlation code and run rough. On a used engine, a cold start is one of the best free diagnostics you can run: listen hard in the first few seconds for chain rattle. A clean, quiet cold start is a strong positive sign.

2. Rocker arm and lash adjuster ticking ("ticking 3.7")

The 3.7 shares the 4.7L V8's roller-rocker and hydraulic-lash-adjuster valvetrain, and like that engine it is prone to a persistent valvetrain tick, particularly when oil changes have been stretched. Sometimes it is a collapsed lash adjuster, sometimes a worn rocker, occasionally a rocker that has walked off its pivot. A light tick that clears with fresh oil is often just a sticky lash adjuster; a loud, persistent tick points to a worn rocker or adjuster that needs to come apart. On a used unit, a quiet top end at idle and off-idle is what you want to hear.

3. Cracked exhaust manifolds and broken manifold bolts

This is one of the most common real-world complaints on the whole PowerTech family. The cast exhaust manifolds and their bolts live through brutal heat cycling, and over the years the manifolds crack and the bolts shear off, usually the rearmost ones. The symptom is an exhaust tick that is loudest at cold start and quiets as the metal expands and seals, often mistaken for the timing chain rattle above. On a used engine, inspect the manifolds for cracks and check for broken or missing manifold bolts, because extracting sheared bolts from an aluminum head is a tedious, time-consuming job you would rather discover before install than after.

4. Intake manifold gasket and plenum leaks

The lower intake manifold gaskets harden and leak over the miles, producing a vacuum leak that shows up as a rough or hunting idle, a lean code, and sometimes a coolant seep. On the 3.7 this is a routine age-related repair rather than a catastrophe, but it is worth knowing about because a "runs rough" engine that someone wrote off prematurely is frequently just leaking intake gaskets. Refreshing the intake gaskets during a swap, while the engine is accessible, is cheap insurance.

5. Overheating, water pump, and head gasket risk

With aluminum heads on an iron block, the 3.7 does not tolerate overheating well. The water pump, thermostat, and radiator all age, and a neglected cooling system can let the engine overheat and warp a head or blow a head gasket. Milky residue under the oil cap, white smoke from the exhaust, or coolant disappearing with no external leak are the warning signs. On a used unit, pull the oil cap and dipstick and look for any sign of coolant intrusion, and ask whether the donor ever overheated. Overheating history is one of the few things that can turn a good used engine into a bad bet.

6. Oil sludge and PCV-related consumption

This engine will sludge up if it is run on cheap oil and stretched intervals, and sludge is the root cause behind a lot of the chain and lash-adjuster failures above. A sludged 3.7 can also start consuming oil as deposits gum up the rings and PCV system. Pull the oil-fill cap and look at the underside and the visible valvetrain: a clean engine has clean aluminum, while a neglected one has a brown or black varnish coating everything. The condition under that cap tells you a great deal about how the donor was treated.

7. Crankshaft and camshaft position sensor faults

Not strictly an engine-internal failure, but worth mentioning because it strands these trucks often: the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors fail with age and heat, throwing no-start or stall conditions and codes like P0335 or P0340. These are inexpensive, accessible parts, and replacing them as preventive maintenance during a swap saves a frustrating post-install no-start chase. Fresh sensors are cheap insurance.

Pros and Cons

An honest balance sheet on the 3.7 PowerTech, from the perspective of someone who installs them rather than markets them.

Pros

• Simple, rugged cast-iron-block design with very little exotic technology to fail.
• Timing chain rather than a belt, so no fixed, costly belt-replacement interval.
• Port fuel injection means none of the severe intake-valve carbon problems that plague direct-injection engines.
• Runs on regular 87-octane fuel, keeping running costs low.
• Shares architecture and many parts with the popular 4.7L V8, so parts and knowledge are everywhere.
• Strong, flat torque curve well suited to a midsize truck's work duty.
• Huge donor pool from Dakota, Liberty, Grand Cherokee, Nitro, and Ram, so used and remanufactured units are easy to find.

Cons

• Timing chain tensioner and guides wear early if oil maintenance is neglected.
• Roller-rocker valvetrain is prone to ticking, especially on stretched oil intervals.
• Cracked exhaust manifolds and sheared manifold bolts are a known, recurring nuisance.
• Aluminum heads on an iron block are unforgiving of overheating.
• Modest output by modern standards at 210 hp, so it is adequate rather than quick.
• Sensitive to sludge from cheap oil and skipped changes.
• Only paired with a dated 4-speed automatic, which limits highway efficiency.

Used Buyer's Checklist

If you are sourcing a used Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 engine, run through this list before money changes hands. This is the same inspection I would do on a donor unit before I would put my name on it.

• Confirm it is the 3.7L PowerTech EKG V6 and not the 4.7L V8, verifying by casting and stamping rather than the seller's word. The Raider and Dakota share this engine, so a Dakota-sourced unit is a correct match.
• Do a cold start if at all possible and listen for timing-chain rattle in the first few seconds and any persistent valvetrain tick.
• Pull the oil-fill cap and dipstick and look for clean aluminum versus brown sludge, and for any milky residue that signals coolant intrusion or overheating.
• Inspect the exhaust manifolds for cracks and check for broken or missing manifold bolts, the classic PowerTech headache.
• Ask about overheating history. An engine that cooked a head gasket is one to walk away from.
• Check the intake manifold area for old gasket seepage and a history of rough idle.
• Verify mileage and, where possible, the donor truck's service history. On-time oil changes are the single biggest predictor of a long-lived 3.7.
• Ask for a compression or leak-down test result, or buy from a seller who runs and tests units before sale.
• Confirm completeness: is it a long block, or does it include the intake manifold, sensors, and accessories? This changes the real cost and install labor dramatically.
• Demand a written warranty and clear return terms. A real warranty is the single best protection on a used engine.
• Confirm shipping and packaging so the unit arrives undamaged with the crank, sensors, and accessories protected.

Every used and remanufactured engine we ship is a tested OEM used part, inspected and run-verified before it leaves the building, and backed by a written warranty. You can browse current stock on our Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L engine page or see the full range on our used engines catalog.

Vehicle Compatibility Guide

Because the 3.7 PowerTech was a corporate Chrysler engine, the same basic V6 appeared across a wide range of vehicles. That is great news for parts availability, but accessory layout, oil pan, intake, wiring, and calibration differ between applications, so not every 3.7 is a drop-in for a Raider. Here is where the Raider-spec engine fits and what to watch for.

• 2006 to 2009 Mitsubishi Raider - the primary application; a Raider-spec 3.7 is a direct fit within the correct year range.
• 2005 to 2011 Dodge Dakota - the Raider's mechanical twin and the single best donor source, since they share the platform, oil pan, and accessory layout. A Dakota 3.7 of the matching years is effectively the same engine.
• 2007 to 2009 Dodge Nitro and 2002 to 2012 Jeep Liberty - same 3.7 family, but different oil pan, accessory drive, and front-sump versus rear-sump layout. Usable as a core but not plug-and-play for a Raider.
• 2002 to 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee and 2006 to 2009 Ram 1500 - same engine family with different accessories and calibration; treat as a long-block donor rather than a complete swap.

Bottom line: stay within a 2005 to 2009 Raider or Dakota application for the cleanest direct replacement, and confirm the engine code and accessory layout for your exact truck. If you are unsure which variant your Raider needs, send us your VIN through our free fitment and quote service and we will match it before you order. We also stock matching driveline parts, so if your project also needs the gearbox, read our companion guide on the Mitsubishi Raider automatic transmission and what to check on a used one.

Installation Tips

Whether you are a seasoned tech or a determined DIYer, the 3.7 swap goes smoothly if you respect a few details specific to this engine and the Raider/Dakota platform.

• Address the timing chain components if history is unknown. If the donor has high miles or an unclear history, inspect the chain, guides, and tensioner before first start. Quiet, clean components save you from pulling the front cover again later.
• Replace the exhaust manifold bolts and gaskets. Given how often these crack and shear, use new hardware and gaskets on install. It is far easier with the engine out, and it preempts the most common post-swap exhaust leak.
• Transfer the right ancillaries. Decide up front whether your used unit is a long block or complete. If it is a long block, plan to move the intake manifold, sensors, and accessory bracketry, and confirm front-sump versus rear-sump oil pan for your chassis.
• Replace consumables during the swap. Fresh 5W-30, a new oil filter, new spark plugs to OEM spec, and new crank and cam position sensors are cheap insurance while the engine is out.
• Refresh the engine mounts. Tired mounts are common on these trucks and will make a healthy engine feel rough. Access is far easier with the engine out.
• Service the cooling system. New thermostat, fresh coolant, and a known-good water pump protect the aluminum heads. Bleed air out fully per the factory fill procedure.
• Verify sensor connectors. Confirm the crank, cam, and coolant temperature connectors seat properly to avoid post-install no-start or limp conditions.
• Clear and relearn. After install, clear codes and let the PCM complete its idle and fuel-trim relearn before judging how it runs.

Maintenance Tips

This engine rewards good maintenance and punishes neglect more than its tough reputation suggests. Do these things and a used 3.7 will give you years of reliable service.

• Change the oil on time with 5W-30. Disciplined oil changes are the single most important thing you can do for this engine, because the timing chain, tensioner, and lash adjusters all depend on clean oil pressure.
• Never run it low on oil. Low oil starves the chain tensioner and lash adjusters first. Check the level monthly.
• Keep the cooling system fresh. Replace coolant on schedule and fix small leaks immediately to protect the aluminum heads from warpage.
• Replace spark plugs on schedule with the correct OEM-spec plugs to keep ignition crisp and combustion clean.
• Watch the exhaust manifolds. Catch a developing manifold tick early, before a crack spreads or a bolt shears, to keep the repair simple.
• Service the PCV system to prevent oil consumption and sludge buildup.
• Address valvetrain ticks promptly. A light tick often clears with fresh oil; a persistent one means a lash adjuster or rocker needs attention before it does damage.
• Use a quality oil filter. The chain tensioner relies on consistent oil pressure, and a poor filter undermines it.

Warranty Information

A used or remanufactured engine is only as good as the warranty behind it, and this is where buying from a real supplier matters. Every tested OEM used Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 engine we ship across the United States is inspected, run-verified, and backed by a written warranty so you are not carrying the risk alone. Coverage terms, mileage limits, and what is required to keep coverage valid, namely correct oil, professional installation documentation, and a properly serviced cooling system, are spelled out in our terms and conditions. Read them before you install, because the two most common ways buyers void an otherwise valid claim on this engine are skipping the documented oil-and-filter service at startup and installing the engine into a truck with a known cooling-system problem that then overheats the new unit. If you have any question about whether a specific unit is covered for your application, contact us first and we will confirm in writing.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Buying on price alone. A bargain long block with no test history and no warranty almost always costs more in the end than a tested unit.
• Ignoring a cold-start rattle. Timing-chain rattle on a used unit is a warning, not a quirk to live with.
• Reusing old exhaust manifold bolts. They shear, and extracting broken ones from an aluminum head after the engine is in is miserable.
• Skipping the cooling-system refresh. Dropping a good engine into a truck with a tired radiator or failing water pump risks cooking the aluminum heads.
• Stretching oil intervals. Sludge and low oil pressure are the root cause of most 3.7 chain and valvetrain failures.
• Confusing the front-sump and rear-sump oil pans. Liberty and Nitro units differ from the Raider/Dakota layout; verify before you order.
• Mistaking the 4.7L V8 for the 3.7L V6. They look similar and share parts, but they are not the same engine.
• Forgetting to keep install records. No documentation can mean no warranty when you need it most.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 engine reliable?

Yes, fundamentally it is. The 3.7 PowerTech is a simple, rugged, cast-iron-block V6 with little exotic technology to fail, and well-maintained examples routinely reach 180,000 to 220,000 miles. Its main vulnerabilities are timing-chain tensioner wear, valvetrain ticking, and cracked exhaust manifolds, all of which good maintenance keeps in check.

Is the Raider 3.7 the same engine as the Dodge Dakota 3.7?

Effectively yes. The Mitsubishi Raider was a rebadged Dodge Dakota built at Chrysler's Warren Truck Assembly plant, and it used the same 3.7L PowerTech EKG V6. A matching-year Dakota 3.7 is the single best donor source for a Raider, since they share the platform, oil pan, and accessory layout.

Does the Raider 3.7 have a timing belt or a timing chain?

It uses a timing chain, not a belt, so there is no fixed belt-replacement interval. The trade-off is that the chain's hydraulic tensioner and plastic guides wear out if the engine is run on old or low oil, which is why oil discipline matters so much on this engine.

Is the 3.7 PowerTech an interference engine?

In most references the 3.7 is considered a non-interference design, meaning a chain that jumps timing is unlikely to smash pistons into valves. That said, a badly worn chain will still strand you and can damage valvetrain components, so a rattling chain should never be ignored.

How many miles will a used Raider 3.7 engine last?

A maintained used unit can deliver many years and well over 200,000 total miles. What matters most is the donor engine's history: on-time oil changes with the correct 5W-30, a healthy cooling system, and no overheating in its past are the markers of an engine that will go the distance.

Why does my 3.7 tick or rattle on cold start?

The most common causes are a worn timing-chain tensioner that briefly rattles until oil pressure builds, a cracked exhaust manifold or sheared bolt that ticks loudest when cold, or a sticky hydraulic lash adjuster in the valvetrain. Learning to tell those three apart is the key to diagnosing it correctly.

What oil does the Mitsubishi Raider 3.7 use?

Chrysler specifies 5W-30 for the 3.7 PowerTech, roughly 5.0 quarts with the filter. Using the correct viscosity and changing it on time is critical on this engine because the timing chain and lash adjusters depend on clean, consistent oil pressure.

What octane fuel should I run?

Regular 87 octane is correct for the 3.7 PowerTech. It is a low-compression, naturally aspirated engine designed for regular fuel, so premium offers no benefit and just adds cost.

Will a Jeep Liberty or Dodge Nitro 3.7 fit my Raider?

It is the same engine family, but those applications use a different oil pan and accessory layout, including front-sump versus rear-sump differences. They make fine long-block cores but are not plug-and-play for a Raider. Stay within a Raider or Dakota unit, or be prepared to swap the pan and accessories.

Are the cracked exhaust manifolds a serious problem?

They are more of a recurring nuisance than a catastrophe, but they are worth taking seriously because broken manifold bolts can shear off in the aluminum head and become a tedious extraction job. Inspecting the manifolds and using new bolts during a swap heads off the problem.

Is a used 3.7 engine worth it compared to a new one?

For most owners, yes. A new long block plus labor can run well over the cost of a tested used or remanufactured unit. As long as the used engine is verified, complete enough for your needs, and warrantied, it is usually the smart financial choice. See current pricing on our Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L engine listing.

Does the used engine come with the intake manifold and accessories?

It depends on the listing. Some are sold as long blocks and some as more complete assemblies with the intake manifold and sensors. Always confirm completeness before buying, because it changes both the price and the install labor significantly. Ask us and we will tell you exactly what is included.

How fast can I get one shipped?

We ship tested engines nationwide across the United States. Lead times depend on stock and your location; our delivery policy covers handling, packaging, and freight details, and our team can give you a firm timeline when you request a quote.

Conclusion

The Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 is, at its core, a simple and durable Chrysler PowerTech truck engine wearing a different badge. Strip away the confusion about the brand and what is left is a cast-iron-block, port-injected, regular-fuel V6 that, when fed clean oil on time and kept from overheating, comfortably outlasts 180,000 miles and often pushes past 220,000. Its real weaknesses, a timing-chain tensioner that wears with oil neglect, a valvetrain that ticks on stretched intervals, and exhaust manifolds that crack with age, are all manageable and, critically, all detectable before you buy. That is exactly why a tested used 3.7 is often the smartest way to get a Raider or Dakota back on the road for far less than a dealer long block.

If you do your homework on the donor's history, run the buyer's checklist above, refresh the cooling system and exhaust hardware on install, and insist on a written warranty, a used Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L V6 engine is absolutely worth it. The key is buying from a source that tests and stands behind what it ships rather than a no-name unit with no story and no coverage.

Want to keep researching before you commit? Our other V6 and same-platform guides are worth a read: the closely related Dodge Dakota 3.7L V6 engine guide (the Raider's mechanical twin and the same engine), the same-displacement Acura MDX 3.7L V6 guide for a different take on a 3.7, the related Chrysler-truck Dodge Ram 3500 5.9L diesel guide, and the workhorse Ford Ranger 2.5L engine guide for a midsize-truck comparison. If your Raider also needs driveline work, the matching Mitsubishi Raider transmission guide covers the automatic's known issues.

Get a Tested Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L Engine Shipped to Your Door

Ready to move forward? Browse our in-stock, tested, warrantied Mitsubishi Raider 3.7L engine or explore the full parts shop and used engines catalog. Not sure which variant fits your VIN? Contact us for a free fitment and quote and let our team match the right unit, confirm warranty coverage, and arrange fast nationwide shipping from our Sheridan, Wyoming facility. Learn more about Next Drive Global and why thousands of DIY owners and professional installers trust us for tested OEM used and remanufactured engines.